|
|
|
| |
|
|
| |
| Here is a pipe
lighting method that will help ensure an effortless smoke. First,
make sure that your tobacco is packed firmly at the very top and about
1/8" to 1/4" *below* the top of the bowl. By doing this
you'll allow room for the tobacco to rise when you first light the
tobacco and your bowl rims won't char and gather tars as fast as they
would if you pack right to the very top. Next, light the tobacco in
three stages. The first two lights, or "charring lights",
play a key roll is how well the tobacco burns and stays lit. Take
your match or lighter and slowing and evenly pass it over the top
of the tobacco while gently drawing on the pipe. Once the top of the
tobacco is charred or blackened, stop and let the smoldering embers
of tobacco go out. Now take your tamper and tamp down the tobacco
that has charred and risen from the first light. Repeat one more time
or until there is a very fine layer of ash covering the entire bowl.
Now you are ready for the final light. Carefully, slowly and evenly
light the entire surface of the tobacco while drawing in. This method
takes a little patience to perfect but it will pay off in a bowl of
tobacco that burns much cooler, longer and more evenly than if you
attempted to get your bowl lit with only one lighting. |
| |
|
|
|
| |
|
|
| |
| There are many
tricks that can be using to keep your tobacco burning without constant
re-lighting. This little trick will take a little time to master but
once you do it will become second nature and part of your smoking
habit. The concept behind this method is similar to a bellows. When
you sense that your pipes is going out, simply blow into the stem
very gently. After a few gentle breaths into the pipe you'll notice
that your tobacco will begin to smolder and re-ignite. Now partially
cover your bowl with your thumb and take a couple of deep puffs. Your
tobacco should once again be fully lit. Ideally, you should practice
this technique the whole time you are smoking your pipe and not wait
until it is about to go out. Master this technique and you'll be able
to smoke your pipe all the way to the bottom without ever having to
re-light! |
| |
|
|
|
| |
Preparing
Flake Style Tobacco
|
| |
|
There are many
ways to prepare flake style pipe tobacco (pressed and sliced) for
smoking ... here are a few. First you'll need a good flake pipe.
A good flake pipe has a narrow, deep bowl. Preferably 5/8"
- 3/4" diameter x 1"+ deep. The most basis way prepare
the slices is to put them in the palm of one hand and cover with
the palm of your other hand and rub your hands together until the
flakes break apart. This is called "rubbing out". Generally,
the more you rub out a flake the more mellow it will be and less
you rub out the flake the more intense the flavors will be.
This is the
whole flake method. First note in which direction the "grain"
of the tobacco is going in the flake. Cut a piece or pieces of flake
*against* (at 90 degrees) the grain and equal to the depth of your
flake pipe. Take the entire flake of tobacco and roll it up into
a fairly tight tube or roll. If done correctly the ends you have
cut will be the *long* ends of the tube. The diameter of the roll
of flake tobacco should be slightly less the diameter of the tobacco
chamber of the pipe you will be smoking. If not, roll another piece
of flake over the first. Place the roll into your pipe and press
it down with a tamper with just enough force to flatten the top.
Light as you normally would and enjoy!
This is the
"sandwich" method. Prepare the flakes in the same manner
as you learned in the whole flake method except this time take two
different types of flake and roll them together. The possibilities
are endless. Try a Virginia flake and an English flake or a Virginia
with an aromatic flake. You might want to tone down a strong flake
that is overwhelming on it's own with a milder flake. Have Fun!
|
| |
|
|
|
| |
Should
you dedicate a pipe for each type of tobacco?
|
| |
| We hear this
question often. There are basically three different categories of
pipe tobacco; aromatic, Virginia and English. Each has it's own characteristics.
As each is smoked they will impart it's unique flavor into the porous
briar and cake of the pipe they are smoked in. The more the given
tobacco is smoked in the same pipe the more of it's flavor will linger
behind. When a different type of tobacco is smoked it will be influenced
by the tobacco previously smoked. This effect can last for the next
5 - 10 bowls and in extreme cases the pipe will have to be thoroughly
cleaned to remove the previous flavors. A pipe that is used to smoke
many different types and blends of tobacco will eventually become
very bland tasting. If you have the luxury of several pipes it would
be a good idea to dedicate a pipe or two to each type of tobacco to
avoid tainting your smoking experience. There are some pipe smokers
that will go so far as to dedicate a pipe for each brand of tobacco.
While this may be extreme, it would be great to have at least 1 pipe
dedicated to your absolute favorite tobacco blend. By doing so you'll
experience the taste of the tobacco in it's purest form. |
| |
|
|
|
| |
Top
5 Questions About Aging Pipe Tobacco
|
| |
|
We receive
many questions via email every day. One subject that usually has
the most questions is "aging pipe tobacco". Aging pipe
tobacco is a huge topic and could easily become the subject matter
for a years worth of newsletters so we decided to compile the top
5 questions found in our Inbox.
|
| |
| |
| 1.
Why should I age my pipe tobacco? |
| |
|
There are as
many reasons to age pipe tobacco as there are questions concerning
how to. Here are just a few ....
- Simply put,
well aged and properly stored pipe tobacco will be the finest
you will ever smoke.
- We have all
experienced the demise of one or more our favorite blends. Aging
provides a hedge.
- You will
save a lot of money by buying now at current prices. The price
of pipe tobacco is constantly rising due to manufacturing costs,
the cost of raw tobacco and production increases and new taxes.
Buy now and save later.
- New laws
are aimed at limiting and completely doing away with online tobacco
sales that we now enjoy. Buying online is so threatened that if
the current crop of laws pass we will no longer be able to make
online purchases of tobacco with the next 12 - 24 months.
|
| |
| 2.
Which type of pipe tobacco benefits the most from aging? |
| |
| Virginia
type tobaccos are decidedly the best prospects for aging followed
by English style tobaccos. Aromatic pipe tobacco, in our experience,
benefits little if any from the aging process. |
| |
| 3.
Where should I store my aged tobacco? |
| |
| Your
aged tobacco should be stored in the coolest and darkest place in
your abode. Light and heat are the 2 biggest enemies of the aging
process and should be avoided at all costs. Your storage area can
be as simple as thick paper bags under your bed or spare closet to
a dedicated, climate controlled room similar to a wine cellar and
everything in between. Replicating the environment of a wine cellar
would be the ideal scenario. Wine and pipe tobacco both thrive in
the same temperature, conditions and humidity. Humidors designed for
cigars, whether walk in or otherwise, generally are much too humid
for pipe tobacco. Cigars need 70%+ humidity while pipe tobacco does
well in 30 - 40% depending on the type of tobacco. Igloo type coolers
work well for storing your aging pipe tobacco. |
| |
| 4.
How long should I age my tobacco? |
| |
| The
minimum length of time that you will notice any significant benefit
of aging is 6 - 12 months. Your aging pipe tobacco will really start
to improve at the 18 month mark and approach the sublime at about
36. After 36 months the aging process will slow a bit but will continue.
We have found properly stored pipe tobacco as old as 30 years that
is absolutely extraordinary. There is no such thing as over aging
pipe tobacco as long as the tobacco is stored properly. |
| |
| 5.
What should I store my aged tobacco in? |
| |
| There are many
ways to store your aging tobacco. If the tobacco came in a sealed
tin simply mark the date on it and put it away in your "cellar".
There are also many affordable tinning machines available for home
use as well. A search for "tinning machines" on a major
search engine like Google will reveal many choices. Mason jars and
canning jars work well when sealed properly. Vacuum sealed bags are
another option. Well sealed vacuum bags have an unprotected usable
shelf life of about 18 +/- months. They will work very well for many
years if the sealed bags are kept in a climate controlled environment
such as a wine type cellar, humidor or another sealed container like
an Igloo cooler. Well sealed bags also serve to press the tobacco
which has benefits as well. |
| |
|
|
|
| |
Pipe
and Tobacco Combinations
|
| |
| Pipes can sometimes
be very finicky when it comes to the kind and type of tobacco that
it will burn well. It pays to try 2 or 3 bowls of a specific tobacco
in a specific pipe and record how it smoked. Then try a different
tobacco and take note of the results. Continue to experiment until
you find a tobacco that burns cool, dry and clean. You'll find that
a pipe will burn one specific tobacco better than anything else you
might pack in it. You might also encounter the rare pipe that will
burn most tobaccos equally well. Sometimes it comes down to engineering
but often times it's inexplicable. As a rule of thumb tall narrow
bowls burn flakes well and wide shallow bowls burn mixtures well.
Wide bowls also tend to tame hot burning tobaccos due to the greater
surface area. The shape of the bowl can make a difference to. Conical
or V shaped bowls will do a better job of burning tobacco that is
hard to keep lit or has a tendency to smoke wet and will intensify
the flavors of the tobacco. Cylindrical bowls that have basically
the same diameter from top to bottom will tend to burn a bit cooler
and slower which will bring out the subtleties in the tobacco. As
much as finding the right tobacco is a journey so is finding the magical
combination of pipe and tobacco. Enjoy the ride! |
| |
|
|
|
| |
|
|
| |
| Now
that the warm weather has arrived (at least here in Vegas where it
has been 105+) I'd like to share an aging trick that I discovered
quite by accident. Take a tin of tobacco and place it on your dashboard
in full sunlight or on a window sill in full sunlight. Leave it there
for about 30 minutes +/-. Now take the tin inside and allow it to
cool to room temperature. You'll find that your tobacco will now taste
and smoke very similar to tobacco that has been aged about 6 - 12
months. Of course there's no substitute for properly aged tobacco
but this is a great way to improve the smoking quality of just about
any type of tobacco. This technique works especially well with Virginia
style tobacco. If you'd like to try this with your favorite bulk tobacco
simply use an old tin or small coffee can. Only do 2 - 4 ounces at
a time. Enjoy! |
| |
|
|
|
| |
Keeping
Your Pipe Stems Shining Like New
|
| |
| First,
we have to give credit where credit is due. This tip comes from the
video "Total Pipe Care and Maintenance".
We've all had our vulcanite rubber stems turn that nasty brown/green
that happens over time. This is oxidization. Oxidization comes from
the chemical reaction from the saliva in our mouths reacting with
the vulcanite and from sunlight. This unsightly process can be slowed
with a simple product that you most likely already have in your kitchen
... olive oil. This process is best done with a brand new stem or
a stem that has been thoroughly cleaned. First, take the stem from
the bowl. With your finger take a very small amount of olive oil and
coat the outside surface of the stem. Allow the olive oil to penetrate
for about 5 - 10 minutes. Now take a clean cotton rag and wipe off
the excess. It's that simple! Here's why it works ......... If you
look at a vulcanite stem under magnification you'd see that there
are thousands, if not millions, of tiny pits in the surface, similar
to an english muffin. This is normal. By applying the olive oil to
the stem the microscopic pits get filled by the oil leaving less surface
area on the stem for the oxidation to get a foot hold. You'll also
want to keep your pipe out of sunlight, direct or otherwise, for any
extended period of time. |
| |
|
|
|
| |
Cake
... No, not the birthday kind ... the one in your pipes! Part I
of IV
|
| |
| This
is Part I in a III part series. Cake, the layer of carbon the clings
to the inner walls of your pipe bowls, is very important to a good
smoke. It often determines whether your pipe will be a good smoker
or a poor smoker. A good cake insulates the bowl, allows good air
flow around the tobacco which promotes a clean, even burn and helps
keep the tobacco lit, prevents bowl burn outs and keeps your pipes
burning cool and dry. The ideal cake is about the thickness of a dime
or a nickel (US). Any thicker than that and you run the risk of cracking
your bowl. See this
image. Cake needs to be of consistent thickness from the top of
the bowl to the bottom and needs regular maintenance. The most important
part of the pipe bowl that needs proper cake is the heel, the very
bottom. Forming cake in the heel is also the most difficult place
for cake to form due to the excess moisture that gathers there and
the fact that most smokers don't smoke their pipes all the way to
the bottom. Different tobaccos form different cakes at different speeds.
Aromatic tobaccos tend to develop cake the fastest but is often the
softest and most fragile. Virginia tobaccos produce cake somewhat
slower but it tends to be much harder and more uniform. English style
tobaccos, in general, are the slowest to form cake. The cake tends
to be as hard as Virginia cake but a little more brittle. Cake also
has the tendency to hold the flavor of the tobacco that formed it
in the first place. In the next 2 articles in this series we'll cover
how to properly start and build a cake and how to maintain and trim
it when necessary. |
| |
|
|
|
| |
|
Cake
... No, not the birthday kind ... the one in your pipes! Part II
of IV
|
| |
| This is Part
II in a III part series. Starting a cake in a new pipe or a recently
refurbished pipe is very important. Doing so will lengthen the life
of the pipe and you'll get more enjoyment from it. So how do we do
it? Well, there are about as many theories on cake as there are stars
in the sky but we'll discuss a method that has served us very well
for many, many years. First take a thin pointy object such as a nail
and lightly scratch the inside of the bowl. This gives the cake something
to grab onto. Often bowl chambers are way to smooth. Skip this step
if your bowl has a carbon coating. Next take a little honey and some
very fine pipe ash and mix them together. Some use water or even scotch
or whiskey but we've found that honey works best. Now take a pipe
cleaner and place it in the pipe so it is extending into the bottom
of the bowl. This is to prevent the mixture from plugging the airway.
Apply the mixture lightly to the heel and bottom half of the bowl.
Allow the pipe to sit overnight or until the mixture loses most of
the sticky texture. Pack the bowl about half full and smoke it all
the way to the bottom. This is very important. It is OK to allow the
bowl to cool in between lights but make sure you finish the bowl in
one sitting .... all the way to the bottom. If you have problems keeping
the very last of the tobacco lit simply dump the ash and mix a tiny
bit of fresh tobacco into what remains in the bowl. Don't empty the
ash from the bowl until the bowl is back to room temperature. What
happens is the honey carmelizes and gets the cake started very fast.
Don't worry, the sweet flavor will go away by the second bowl. Next
time you smoke the pipe you can fill it to the top and enjoy the whole
bowl ... just make sure you smoke to the bottom, especially for the
first few bowl. This will encourage cake to form in the very bottom
of the bowl which is the most important place and also the place that
is the hardest to cake. |
| |
|
|
|
| |
|
Cake
... No, not the birthday kind ... the one in your pipes! Part III
of IV
|
| |
| This
is Part III in a IV part series. Once you have developed a good cake
in your pipe it is very important that you maintain it properly. If
you don't, this is what could happen to your pipe - See
this image. The proper cake is an even cake of equal thickness
from the top of the bowl to the bottom. In order to achieve this even
cake there are a few things you can do. First, always finish smoking
your pipe. It is a bad habit to smoke just the top portion of the
bowl. This causes a thicker cake on top than on bottom. A pipe like
this will never smoke well. If the reason you are not smoking your
pipes down to the bottom is because you are having problems keeping
lit, then try emptying most of the ash and mix in a little fresh tobacco.
Tamp down and relight. If your pipe doesn't have some serious design
flaw this should take care of the problem. Second, use a tamper ...
round if possible. Tamping scours the walls of the bowl and encourages
an even, hard cake. Yes, using a tamper does slow down the development
of cake but that will be a plus once you have a proper cake. Not tamping
tends to cause a loose, flaky cake. Third, when you are finish smoking
... to the bottom of the bowl of course ... cover the bowl with the
palm of your hand and give the pipe a couple of firm shakes. This
will distribute much of the fine ash that is necessary for a good
cake around the wall of the bowl. Also, let the pipe cool before cleaning
out the remains or "dottle" because the cake is most vulnerable
to damage when hot. In the next and final Part in this series we'll
cover reaming and trimming your cake. Stay tuned! |
| |
|
|
|
| |
|
Cake
... No, not the birthday kind ... the one in your pipes! Part IV
of IV
|
| |
|
This is Part
IV in a IV part series. If you haven't already please read Part
I, Part II & III. Once your cake has built up to a point
where it is thicker than a US nickel it is time to start reaming.
Reaming is the process by which cake is cut down to the proper size.
There are a few different tools that can be used. They can be seen
here
and we'll discuss them in a moment. For routine reaming you only
need to cut the cake back to about the thickness of a US dime. Under
normal circumstances you never want to cut the entire cake and expose
the briar pipe walls. If you do remove the entire cake you will
have to go through the process of breaking in the pipe all over
again. There are times when you might want to remove the entire
cake such as when you'd want to remove the cake because it is holding
the flavors of a tobacco you no longer favor or you want to refurbish
an estate pipe that you have just added to your collection. Always
ream your pipe when it is at room temperature. When making the first
pass with your chosen reamer adjust it so it barely touches the
cake. This will round the cake to a uniform shape. Next continue
to adjust the reamer to bite a little more. Each pass of the reamer
should be very light taking only a little cake each time until the
proper thick has been achieved. Never turn the reamer back and forth
in the bowl. This can cause the cake to fracture. Turn in one direction
only. Reaming is a bit of a messy process so it would be a good
idea to ream over a garbage pail. The flat style reamers, such as
the Brebbia
model we stock, are inexpensive and do a great job of keeping cake
in check in between more thorough reamings. They also are small
enough to be carried in a pipe pouch. For more accurate reaming
and thicker, harder cake a heavier duty reamer such as the Senior
reamer is needed. This reamer makes short work of the most
stubborn cake. It can be precisely adjusted and has the added benefit
of a built in shank reaming tool for complete maintenance. You need
to use care with the Senior reamer because it is capable of cutting
cake very fast. You might be tempted to cut the cake in one pass,
which this tool is totally capable of, but resist the temptation
and cut the cake in several shallower passes ... your cake will
thank you.
We hope you've
enjoyed and learned from this four part series. We'll be during
similar multi part maintenance lesson over the next few months.
If you have a suggestion on a series you'd like to see feel free
to email. Happy
smoking, Team VegasSmokes
|
| |
|
|
|
| |
Keeping
Your Bowl Rim Clean
|
| |
| A charred, sticky
and caked bowl rim is nothing but an eyesore. There are a few things
you can do to keep it looking good. For this article lets assume that
your bowl rim is already clean or new. First, never pack your pipe
all the way to the top. +/- 1/4" from the top is ideal depending
on the overall depth of the tobacco chamber. This will allow room
for the tobacco to expand when you light and still not touch the top
and will keep you from putting the bowl rim in direct contact with
flame. Second, take a little saliva and rub it on the bowl rim before
you light. This will keep the flame from charring the briar. And last
but not least, always clean your bowl rim when you are finished smoking
your pipe. While the pipe is still warm apply saliva to the rim and
wipe with a soft cloth or paper towel until clean. Saliva does an
amazing job of breaking down and cleaning tobacco gum and tar. For
more stubborn tar or pipes with a rusticated or burl rim an old toothbrush
and saliva work wonders. I realized some of you might be put off by
the use of saliva but give it a try and you'll be pleasantly surprised.
Happy smoking! |
| |
|
|
|
| |
The
Right Pipe Cleaner For The Job
|
| |
| There are many
things in life that are "one size fits all". Unfortunately
pipe cleaners are not one of those things. Pipe cleaners come in many
sizes and styles. There are "regular", extra fluffy or absorbent,
tapered, bristle and so called "churchwarden" pipe cleaners
named for the extra long length. Regular pipe cleaners have been the
bread and butter cleaner for a very long time. They are easy to find,
fit just about any size pipe and do a very good job. Some pipe smokers
use them exclusively. While they work well in most cases I wanted
to take the time to expand your pipe cleaner horizons. Each of the
other styles serve a more specific purpose which I'll cover briefly
for your reading pleasure. Fluffy pipe cleaners are great for
pipes with larger airways and passages. You should use them when you
notice that a regular size pipe cleaner just isn't snug enough to
do a thorough cleaning job. Don't force them down a stem if it feels
too tight ... we've recovered many a broken off fluffy cleaner in
folks prized pipes. Fluffy cleaners also work great in the airway
of the briar bowl itself which tends to be drilled larger than the
stem. Tapered pipe cleaners work well on pipe that have a lot
of bend to them. They will normally glide down the stems of even the
most sharply bent pipes. I know each of us has a pipe or two that
might not take a regular pipe cleaner all the way from the button
on the stem to the bottom of the bowl without separating the pipe
... perfect time to use the tapered cleaner. The bristle pipe cleaner
is essentially a regular size pipe cleaner that has nylon bristle
embedded along it's length. These are my favorites. They do a superb
job of cleaning even the cruddiest of pipes while still maintaining
good absorbency. Using bristle cleaners will allow you to go longer
between through cleaning of your pipe and when you have to it'll be
less of challenging job. Churchwarden or extra long pipe cleaners
are the only way to go for your long stemmed pipes. They can also
be economical for your regular length pipes because you can cut them
in halve or even thirds. What ever you do, you owe it to yourself
and your pipe smoking enjoyment to not skimp on pipe cleaners, don't
use the ones that you find in arts and craft store and experiment
with different types. Happy Smoking! |
| |
|
|
|
| |
Top
5 Questions About Estate Pipes
|
| |
| 1. What is
an estate pipe? |
| |
| Simply put, it
is a pipe that has been previously smoked or has been sitting unsmoked
for several years for whatever reason. |
| |
|
2. Isn't
smoking a pipe that someone else smoked unsanitary?
|
| |
| My first response
when asked this question is ..."You weren't the first person
to eat off that fork either!". Of course that is presuming that
the estate pipe in question has been thoroughly cleaned and sanitized
such as we and other reputable dealers do. I wouldn't put a pipe found
at a garage sale or from a non pro dealer on eBay in my mouth
either. |
| |
| 3. Can I save
money buying an estate pipe rather than a new pipe? |
| |
| Generally speaking
yes. Most estate versions of currently produced pipes will be on average
25 - 50% less than the cost of the same pipe new depending on condition
but there is no set rule. The exceptions would be famous pipes that
are no longer in production like the awesome GBD Uniques of the 60s
which can sell for hundreds more than they cost new, one of a kind
high grades and certain rare years, grades or stampings. All of these
would fall into the category of "collectibles". |
| |
| 4. I've heard
estate pipes smoke better than new pipes. Is that true? |
| |
| Yes and no. (How
did you know I was going to say that) Pre-smoked pipes with even the
most minute amount of cake will smoke well right from the start (unless
it was just poorly engineered in the first place) simply because someone
else has already started the "break in process" for you.
It's also my experience that older, high quality unsmoked pipes, like
say a 70s Charatan, will break in very fast and smoke well right from
the get go. Some might claim that is due to older or better briar
but to keep away from controversy I won't be so bold. Of course there
are exceptions. Take the Italian made Ardor pipe. Brand new Ardor
pipes smoke better at the beginning than some thoroughly cleaned and
refurbished estate pipes and most other new pipes. |
| |
| 5. I found
a box of old pipes in my grandfather's attic. How much are they worth? |
| |
| This is undoubtedly
the toughest question I have to answer. Some people don't like the
answer and some even get insulted or heart broken. Old pipes have
to have some type of pedigree to have value. Just because it is old
matters little. We have literally hundreds of what I call "drug
store" type pipes that are sitting in boxes that have been culled
out to save 2 or 3 good pipes ... just can't bear to throw them out
for some reason. Some are decades old. Some are slightly saleable
but the cost of repair and refurbishing far out weights the resale
value. Many, many times we have been brought old pipes that folks
tell us are ivory and expect are valuable but turn out to be simple
cookie cutter meerschaum pipes that just happen to be old. It's the
same as if you had a box of old watches. Yes, the Rolex and even the
Timex would have value but the RoLUX or Swatch with the scratch on
the face is worthless regardless of age. It breaks my heart to tell
someone that the 40 year old pipe that Grandpa smoked every holiday
is worth, well ... nothing. But then again sometimes Grandpa smoked
a 1917 Duke Street stamped Dunhill ... now we're talkin'. |
| |
| BONUS QUESTION:
Where is the best place to buy estate
pipes? |
| |
| That's easy.
VegasSmokes.com of course! :) |
| |
| If you'd like
to try your hand at cleaning and refurbishing that old box of pipes
yourself we highly recommend the video
"Total Pipe Care and Maintenance" |
| |
|
|
|
| |
Removing
Dings, Scratches & Dents From Your Pipes
|
| |
| It's
happened to all of us ... no matter how careful we are eventually
even our most cherished pipes will suffer a ding, scratch or dent.
You can remove most of these from your pipe with the following method.
Just do it very carefully. First, take a pin and dip it in cool water.
Touch it to the ding so that some water fills the ding and no more.
Think of the ding as a swimming pool you are filling ... no matter
how small. The water should be higher than the surface of the pipe.
Let it soak in for a few minutes and apply again if necessary. Now
take the tip another pin and heat it to red hot and touch it to JUST
the water and not the briar. This takes a very steady hand. The water
should steam off very fast and the ding should be gone. The whole
procedure might take a try or two so be patient. If you put too much
water and more than it takes to "fill the pool" you could
cook off some of the finish. Not the end of the world if you do but
you will have to rewax the pipe. I highly recommend that you try this
method a few times on some "knock around" pipes until you
get the hang of it. |
| |
|
|
|
| |
Short
Term Pipe Tobacco Storage
|
| |
|
There has been
much written on the subject of long term pipe tobacco storage but
not much on short term so I though I'd take the time to address
the subject. For the purposes of this discussion I'll be considering
the storage of 4 ounces or less. In the past it was vogue to place
apple slices, orange peels and other similar items in a pouch for
the purposes of keep tobacco fresh ... this is not a good idea.
The fruits will start to break down with heat and light and spoil
your tobacco. You'll be smoking and handling all forms of bacteria
and fungus, some visible and some not. An unpleasant thought at
the least. Pouch
humidifiers work so much better if kept clean. Distilled
water works best and will lengthen the disk's life. How about the
ziploc lock bags that we sometimes receive our pipe tobacco in?
They are fine for a few days if kept sealed and out of direct light.
If you live in a dry climate a pouch humidifier with be just what
the doctor ordered ... so to speak. Leather and vinyl pipe tobacco
pouches work much better as well as being more dignified. Make sure
the one you select has a supple rubber or latex liner. The cheapy
kind usually has a plastic liner that will eventually crack and
split. In general roll up or snap type pouches work better than
the zipper variety. The zippers on those let air pass and get just
plain foul after a while. Keeping your tobacco in your pocket is
OK for the very short term. Remember this .... when the temperature
of tobacco rises so done the humidity. When the temperature falls
so does the humidity. Yes, I can give you the scientific explaination
but I'll save you the boredom for the sake of brevity. That being
said, assuming your tobacco was at perfect humidity when you set
out in the morning, it will become to too damp when left in your
pocket or anywhere else above "room temp" for any length
of time and will lead to a hot, wet smoke. All is not lost ... either
lay out a bowl's worth of tobacco prior to smoking if convenient
or simply pack the bowl about 10 - 15 minutes before your smoke
break. Now what if your tobacco got cold and is now a bit on the
dry side (again a hot smoke)? Almost a no brainer ... warm it up
in your hand or pocket. Happy and cool smoking, VegasSmokes
|
| |
|
|
|
| |
|
|
| |
No, this isn't
about getting your heart broken ... it's about keeping your pipe
burning! Many have emailed and asked "While I'm smoking should
I dump my ash or leave it in the pipe?" Thats easy ... Both.
Through out most of your bowl having a layer of ash on top of
the burning tobacco is a benefit. From the first light the ash
that will develope will serve several functions.
So when do you
dump?
- When the
ash gets so dense from tamping that it smothers the burning tobacco.
- When you
are having problems keeping the pipe lit ... assuming it is properly
packed.
- When it has
become so thick or dense that you can no longer relight.
When you do
have to dump, only dump about half of the ash then lightly tamp
the ash back down and relight. Please be safe when dumping ash.
Almost certainly a few hot tobacco embers will leave with the ash
that could burn your favorite smoking jacket ... or worst.
|
| |
|
Back
to Index
|
|
| |
Leave
It In or Pull It Out??
|
| |
|
Your pipe cleaner
that is. One year ago someone emailed and asked whether or not it
was a good idea to leave a pipe cleaner in the stem when you're
through smoking. I answered according to what I had been taught
... NO. I've always listened to the pros and cons on the subject
and formulated my own conclusion. After thinking about I came a
the conclusion that I shouldn't be jumping to that conclusion. I
decided to perform a somewhat controlled test. Here is how I did
it.
- Two identical,
new Savinelli
Model 114 pipes were used. Both croos grained.
- Each was
smoked three times a week for 1 year (3/03)
- Each rested
2 days between smoking.
- Each was
cleaned with 4 pipe cleaners after smoking was complete.
- Each was
thoroughly cleaned every 4 weeks.
- The same
tobacco, Five Star Deluxe, was smoked exclusively.
- One was left
to rest with a pipe cleaner in the stem and shank and one was
not.
- Standard
size and fluff pipe cleaners were used.
Here are my
observations at the conclusion of the test. The pipe in which the
cleaner was left in will be referred to as Pipe A. Pipe B is the
pipe without.
- The shank
of Pipe A is slightly darker than Pipe B leaving a slightly two
toned appearance.
- Pipe A developed
a slight gap between the shank and stem.
- Pipe A's
shank expanded slightly larger than the stem.
- Pipe A had
more pipe cleaner residue (stray fuzz) in it when thoroughly cleaned.
- Pipe B took
longer to break in. I'm not sure if that had anything to do with
the test.
- Pipe A took
a few more cleaners for the once a month cleaning.
- After 1 year
Pipe A is a little more ... well for lack of a better term, stinky.
So there you
have it. Pipe B, without the cleaner, faired better than Pipe A
with. I am only going to guess why but I suspect that the pipe cleaner
left in does more to keep the moisture trapped than it does to wick
it out. Happy Smoking.
|
| |
|
|
|
| |
Which
is Cooler, Sandblasted or Smooth?
|
| |
|
I've heard many
times in the past that sandblasted pipes smoke cooler than smooth
pipes due to the greater surface area. After many years of taking
this to be a somewhat statement I decided to put it to the test.
Here's how I set up the test.
- Two identical,
new Savinelli
Model 316 pipes (one rustic/sandblast and one smooth matte)
were used.
- Each was
smoked ten times over a ten day period for the purpose of breaking
them in.
- Gawith &
Hoggarth Balkan
Blend was used exclusively for break in and testing.
- Each was
filled and packed to the top with an equal portion of tobacco
for the test.
- Each was
placed in a plastic folding pipe stand.
- Each was
not moved from the pipe stand or touched during the test.
- Each was
lit with 3 matches.
- Each received
1 full draw on the pipe every 30 seconds.
- Each was
tamped every 10 draws.
- Test was
conducted 10 minutes into the bowl.
- Bowl temperature
was taken using a fine point metal probes attached to digital
thermometers (identical models) that were placed on the right
side of the bowl at the midway point and held tight to the bowl
with the help of the plastic pipe stand.
- At 30 minutes
both pipes were allowed to go out.
Here are my
observations during the test.
- The rustic
pipe was actually hotter during the first 10 minutes prior to
"official testing".
- At the 10
minute point the rustic was 6 degrees hotter the the smooth.
- At 15 minutes
the rustic was 4 degrees cooler.
- At 20 minutes
the rustic was 2.5 degrees cooler.
- At 25 minutes
the rustic was 3.5 degrees cooler.
- At 30 minutes
the rustic was 4 degrees cooler.
- At 35 minutes
(after the pipes went out) the rustic was 18 degrees cooler.
So there you
have it. The rustic pipe did indeed smoke cooler but I'd have to
say that the few degrees during the first 30 minutes hardly constitutes
a "cooler smoking pipe". I could not tell the difference.
What I did notice was how fast the rustic pipe cooled down after
the tobacco went out as compared to the smooth. Hmmmmmm. Happy Smoking.
|
| |
|
|
|
| |
A
Tobacco Blending Primer
|
| |
| We receive many
emails asking questions on how to blend your own pipe tobacco. While
we are admittedly not blending experts we do have many years of basic
experience we'd like to share. This will be Part I in a 4 part series.
For even more blending information visit TobaccoBlending.com.
For tobacco blending components visit this page. |
| |
|
When describing
the act of "blending pipe tobacco" I'd have to break up
the process into two categories, Hybrid and Raw Component blends.
Hybrid blends are those that are composed of mixtures or flakes
of existing tobaccos. For example ....4 parts Dunhill 965 and 1
part Esoterica Pembroke. Raw component blends are those composed
of raw ingredients. For example ... 3 parts Red Virginia, 2 Parts
Stoved Virginia and 1 part Turkish. You'll notice how I used the
term *parts*. Parts are the easiest units of measure when you are
first starting out. A part could be anything from an ounce to the
contents of a measuring device of your choice. In the beginning
please start by using small parts such as 1/2oz or tablespoons.
The reason it is best to start small is because not all of the concoctions
you'll come up with will be worthy of a second bowl. You want to
enjoy and experiment without exposing to much of you favorite tobacco
to your whims.
|
| Some
of you might be thinking .."Why should I blend my own tobacco?"
Well, part is for the sheer fun of experimenting and the pride of
having developed a blend that you and your pals truly enjoy. Even
Bing had his own hybrid blend from drug store brand tobaccos. You'll
find that blend on TobaccoBlending.com
. Another reason is blending with a purpose or to solve a need
or problem. Maybe you can't find a commercially blended tobacco with
the amount of latakia you'd like or perhaps too much of one kind of
tobacco irritates your throat. Here's an example from personal experience.
My wife happens to dislike the smell of perique and latakia around
the house ... I happen to love both. She loves the smell of aromatic
tobaccos. What I ended up doing was taking McClellands 2050 (a slightly
cased aromatic that she likes) and experimenting with proportions
of latakia and perique. I continued to mix until she could no longer
smell either and I could still taste them. The tobacco I love ended
up being masked in the room aroma of a tobacco that she loves. I can
smoke the two blends indoors now. Problem solved. |
|
Being that we
will be starting from a basic standpoint we'll first cover hybrid
style blends. These are the easiest to successfully mix and there
is a good chance that most of you already have some tobaccos around
to start with. Here are some basic guidelines for hybrid blends
to get you started.
- Record everything
you do in a notebook for further reference.
- Record what
you liked or didn't like about your creation. This will help tremedously
when it comes to fine tuning.
- Record how
it smoked. Did it constantly go out? Did it burn cleanly?
- Always smoke
2 or 3 bowls of your blends. The first or two bowl will most likely
taste of the last tobacco that was smoked in that pipe.
- Smoke in
a clay pipe for a purer tasting smoke. Briar can sometimes influence
taste.
- Blend from
one manufacturer's line. McClelland with McLelland, Gawith &
Hoggarth with Gawith & Hoggarth ETC. You'll find that one
tobacco from a specific manufacturer will readily blend with another.
- Blend like
tobaccos. Flakes blend well with other flakes and mixtures with
mixtures.
- Use less
of a strong tobacco. Stonger tobaccos such as English and Balkan
styles easily dominate ligher tobaccos. 1 part to 4 - 6 parts
is a good starting point.
- Don't be
afraid to mix a Virginia or English style with an aromatic tobacco
for a change of pace.
- Most blends
that you'll come up with will taste better if allowed to "marry"
first before smoking. Simply seal the mix in a plastic bag with
all the air squeezed out for a day or so ... or at least until
your curiousity gets the better or you.
I hope you're
now inspired to come up with you own private micro blend. Maybe
even a blend worth of sharing ... the pipe smoking community will
be richer for your efforts. Stay tuned for Part II. Happy Blending!
|
| |
|
|
|
| |
|
A
Tobacco Blending Primer Part II
|
| |
|
In Part I we
discussed general rules of blending and some hybrid blending basics.
In Part II we'll discuss Raw Component blends. Raw component blends
are those composed of raw ingredients. For example ... 3 parts Red
Virginia, 2 Parts Stoved Virginia and 1 part Turkish. These types
of blends are more difficult to blend. With Hybrid blends you are
expounding on existing blends and reaping the rewards of someone
else's work. With raw component blends the work rests squarely on
your shoulders. You'll need a clear direction and a healthy dose
of imagination. The first thing to do is decide what type of blend
you'd like to make. Next find a tobacco that you'd like to approximate
or improve upon and smoke a few bowls of it. Write down what you
like about it and see if you can discribe all the various flavors
that the tobacco has that you enjoyed ... and those you didn't.
If you don't take the time to do this you'll have a very "hit
or miss" go at blending. Also look at the tobacco and see if
you can indentify the components. You're not trying to reverse engineer
the tobacco but simply getting a feel for it. Note the types of
cuts that are used. Are they ribbon? cube? rough cut? Here are some
basic guidelines that will help you get started.
- 10% is a
good starting point when using latakia. At about 40% the latakia
will dominate all but the most robust Virginia tobaccos.
- 5% is a good
starting point when using perique. At about 15 - 20% the perique
will dominate all but the most robust Virginia tobaccos.
- Virginias
are an excellent base tobacco and mix fine amongst themselves.
- As a rule
of thumb you'll find that the lighter the color of a Virginia
tobacco the tangier the taste. Darker VA's tend to be richer and
more pronouced. You'll also find them to be strong with more of
a kick both in flavor and nicotine.
- Stoved Virginias
add a mellowness to a blend as well as a mild raisin type flavor.
They also slow down the rate at which the blend will burn. This
is an important consideration. Don't over do it. Too much and
you'll end up with a bland blend.
- Unflavored
cavendish tobacco adds a certain smoothness and fullness as well
as a smokiness ... both in terms of flavor and actual smoke.
- Turkish type
condiment tobaccos tend to add a background hint of sweetness.
They also add a lot of balance to a blend. Note that they will
cause a blend to burn at a faster rate.
- Burley tobacco
can also be a fine base for a blend. Note that burley tobaccos
tend to be a bit on the strong side. They also tend to bite if
too much is used. Rough cut burley burns quick. Cubed burley burns
slowly. Burley also burns cleanly ... another important consideration.
- All components
should be of the same moisture content. If not the drier tobaccos
will leach the moisture and flavors out of the moister tobaccos.
If some cases this will cause the blend to be very mono flavored.
- Allow all
blends to marry for a day or two (longer if you have the patience)
- Record all
that you do so you can fine tune.
- Smoke some
of each variety of raw tobacco to get a sense of it's flavor and
burning characteristics so you know what it's bringing to the
table.
In Part II we'll
be covering various tobacco processing and blending techniques.
Stay tuned and Happy Blending!
|
| |
|
|
|
| |
|
A
Tobacco Blending Primer Part III
|
| |
|
Now that you're
becoming more familiar with the basic comcepts of tobacco blending
it's time to turn our attention to tobacco processing proceedures.
The basic categories of processing fall into the following classifications;
mixing, cutting and pressing.
Mixing your
new blends is a fairly straight forward process. We use two methods
depending on the size of the batch. For smaller batches of 1 - 3
pounds we used a large stainless steel mixing bowl. They can be
found at most restaurant supply houses. They're easy to clean with
a little vodka and have the perfect shape for hand mixing. For larger
batches simply dump the tobaccos into a large plastic garbage bag
a give a good, hearty shake.
Cutting and
prepping tobacco is ocassionally necessary. If you're mixing a flake
style tobacco into your blend you'll want to "rub" it
out first so it mixes well with the other tobaccos. If you don't,
the blend won't have the consistency you'll desire. Simply take
a handful of the flakes and rub them in the palms of your hands
until they are fairly well broken up. There will be times you'll
want to finely cut certain tobaccos. In some blends using tobaccos
like perique and latakia you'll find that finely cutting them will
enhance the blend. This is especially useful if you want these tobaccos
to blend into the background rather than be pronouce. For this we
like to use a small coffee mill. They can be found in most department
stores. We bought ours at Bed Bath & Beyond ... $20 and it's
lasted for years. Remember to clean it, after it's unplugged of
course, with vodka to keep the blades and bowl clean. Don't overdo
the cutting. If you grind the tobaccos to finely they will settle
to the bottom.
Pressing your
blend is a great way to marry and refine the flavors of the tobaccos
and give the mix a head start in the aging process. We have a custom
hydraulic press for our needs but you need not get that complicated
for small batches. There are several ways you can press. You can
use a Food Saver type vacuum sealer. They do a great job of compressing
the tobacco. If you take a small flat piece of wood and press the
bag down while the air is being drawn out you'll be amazed at the
press you'll achieve. Let sit for at least a week ... longer if
you can bear the wait. Another simple method is to forcefully hand
press the tobacco into a wide mouth mason type canning jar and seal
it. If you really want to pack it in take a large dowl or piece
of closet pole and smash it down real good. Careful not to break
the jar. Keep the jar out of sunlight while you wait for the magic
to happen.
In Part IV we'll
be covering casing, flavoring and infusioning. Stay tuned and Happy
Blending!
|
| |
|
|
|
| |
|
A
Tobacco Blending Primer Part IV
|
| |
| If you have not
yet read Part I, II and
III and of this IV Part series, please do so you're up to
speed. For even more blending information visit TobaccoBlending.com.
For tobacco blending components visit this page. |
| |
|
In this final
part in this four part series we'll be discussing casing, flavoring
and infusing your tobacco blends. Why would you want to do any of
the aforementioned proceedures? Simple ... added and different flavors.
Casing is the
process by which tobacco is top coated with a flavoring. This process
is commonly associated with aromatic tobaccos. Such flavors range
from the most subtle vanillas to apples and strong spices. Not all
casings need be sweet and gooey. Here are a few guidelines:
- Use your
stainless steel mixing bowl and clean it with vodka when finished.
- Use a little
flavoring at a time. Allow time for the casing to adhere rather
than run the risk of over moistening your blend.
- Use a spray
bottle for even coverage.
- Don't use
any flavoring that is perishible.
- Case small
amounts of tobacco first before committing.
- Always allow
at least a day or so before smoking.
- Try the following;
wine, cognac, beer, honey, liquers, extracts, etc. Let your imagination
run wild.
Flavoring or
"spicing" your tobacco is very simple. We mostly use powdery
type flavoring agents. They include the following: nasal snuff,
various spices, cocoa powder, dried and powdered condiment tobaccos
such as perique and latakia, dehydrated and powdered fruits and
more. Again, use your imagination. Please, nothing you wouldn't
want in your lungs in the first place. A little goes a long way.
Simply spinkle and mix so the flavoring adheres to the tobacco.
Infusing tobacco
provides the richest and longest lasting flavors. The process is
easy to do. First place your tobacco in your mixing bowl and weight
it on your scale. Note the weight. For an example let say 16 ounces
(1 lb.). Now set the tobacco aside or let it sit on the scale while
it dries out. Exposed to air all tobacco will lose moisture. Do
not try to accelerate the process with heat or sunlight as that
will only damage the tobacco. Once the tobacco has dried to the
proper weight it's time to infuse. There is no set weight I can
prescribe. You'll have to experiment but as a rule of thumb 1 -
3 ounces. Spray your flavoring on the dried tobacco until it reaches
it's original weight. If you let the tobacco dry by 2 ounces then
you will be using 2 ounces of flavoring. You are reintroducing the
moisture that was lost but this time it is flavored and will infuse
the tobacco. Lightly spray the flavor a little at a time and very
lightly toss. You don't want to apply any pressure or roughness
to the mixing process due to the dryness of the tobacco. Once the
tobacco is back up to it's original weight and well mixed let it
sit for about an hour and add more flavor if there is any further
evaporation. Let set a spell before smoking. You can use any of
the above mentioned flavors to infuse. My personal favorite is port
wine.
I hope you've
enjoyed and learned from this Four Part Tobacco Blending Primer.
If you come up with a keeper don't forget to share it with others.
Happy Blending!
|
| |
|
|
|
| |
How
Many Pipes Should Be In Your Rotation?
|
| |
|
This is a question
that is presented to us on a regular basis. The answer has to be
based on several variables such as the following;
- How often
do you smoke?
- What type
of tobacco do you smoke?
- Does your
smoking style lend itself more towards ending up with a somewhat
dry or wet pipe?
- Do you smoke
the same tobacco all day?
As a general
rule you should allow at least 1 to 2 hours for your pipe to rest
after you finish smoking. This allows enough time for your pipe
to properly cool down and dry out ... for the most part. The time
of tobacco you smoke plays a role too. Aromatic tobacco burns slightly
wetter and tends to cause a pipe to retain moisture longer. Virginias
tend to burn cleaner and drier and sometimes the pipe can be put
back in action in as little as 30 - 45 minutes. If you are accustomed
to smoking your pipe enough to conflict with these suggested times
then you should be using 2 or more pipes in your daily rotation.
If you are a "wet" smoker or have a few cherished pipes
that matter to smoker a tad on the wet side than you should also
be using 2 or more pipes in your daily rotation. As discussed
in a previous newsletter, it is best to dedicate a pipe for
each type of tobacco that you smoke. So, if you smoke more than
one type of tobacco during the coarse of the day than you'll need
to add more pipes into your daily rotation. Each pipe in your rotation
should have the minimum of 2 days off after being used for the day
and cleaned every 5 - 10 bowls depending on the tobacco smoked and
your smoking habits.
Hmmmm ... So
let's do the math ... well let's not and say we did and sum up with
the following general rules of thumb; If you smoke on a daily basis
and have a good pipe cleaning and care schedule established the
bare minimum amount of pipes in your rotation should be no less
than 3. 7 would be the ideal minimum and would ensure well rested,
fresh pipes and spread out your time spent cleaning. What's right
for you? Simply take these suggested minimum rotations and factor
in the four questions above. Me? I'm a minimum 21 kinda guy. I smoke
3 types of tobacco each day and keep my pipes dedicated within reason.
Aromatic in the morn, VA mid day and a smooth English blend in the
evenings. I also like to let my pipes rest for a week and set aside
one night a week for cleaning. Yup, 21 for me but I always find
an excuse for more ;). Happy Smoking!
|
| |
|
|
|
| |
Is
Pipe Smoking Gaining In Popularity?
|
| |
|
These days it
seems that all tobacco use is so heavily frowned upon by "society".
Is it possible that pipe smoking is actually on the rise? The answer
is yes.Industry studies support this. There are several reasons
for this.
- The 90s saw
a huge cigar boom. Many of those that learned to enjoy cigars
are now turning to pipes. Spurned by the over pricing and poor
quality brought on by the boom and the intangability of the actual
cigars themselves, folks have discovered a wonderful alternative
in pipes.
- With the
right tobacco, pipe smoke envokes the fondest memories in most
people ... even those opposed to smoking. How many times have
you heard how your pipe smoke reminded someone of Grandpa?
- Pipe smoking
is economical. Even if you smoking the finest tobacco money can
buy, a bowlful cost pennys.
- Smoking a
pipe causes one to relax and reflect.
- There are
currently thousands of tobaccos to choose from.
- The abilility
to blend ones own pipe tobacco.
- The selection
of pipes available today is mind boggling. Whether you're a collector
of a specific year, shape or brand or simply looking for the most
bang for your buck ... you're in luck. The possiblities are now
endless.
- Even as brick
and mortar pipe shops close routinely, the internet has been an
excellent resource for pipe smokers world wide.
- Cigarette
smokers are crossing over to our healthier form of tobacco consumption.
- Fellowship.
For the most part pipe smokers are good, decent and kind people.
Pipe smokers tend to develop healthy, long term bonds with one
another. You can never have enough friends!
Now before we
drop our guard and start feeling too warm and fuzzy there is a couple
of things to think about. One major concern to pipe smokers world
wide are all the proposed bans on the shipment of pipe tobacco.
This would put a huge damper on those who order online. Read more
HERE. Also, the recent rash
of laws banning smoking in public and private places throughout
the country should be a concern to us all. So what can we do? Simple.
Get involved, vote, stay informed, support your local pipe shops
and for pete's sake ... proudly smoke your pipe in public as much
as possible. Happy Smoking!
|
| |
|
|
|
| |
How
To Re-hydrate Pipe Tobacco
|
| |
|
|